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By Linda Peacock, Master Gardener, SCMG

Bonsai is the Japanese term for “shallow tray (Bon) planting (sai).  It has become the name of the Chinese art form that is based on the study of trees as they grow in the wild by re-creating nature in miniature.   It is not a quick process; you need to be prepared to have each plant take years to become the expected shape and artistic form.  It is a calm, meditative process that can provide years of pleasure.  It can be the perfect answer to those without a large yard or garden who still want to enjoy trees and the year-round colour they can provide.

There are many forms or styles to choose from in Bonsai.  You can choose a conifer or a deciduous plant.  A dwarf variety is recommended.  You can start your project from seed which is inexpensive but will take at least 5 years before you have a mature enough plant to start working with.  Most people start by purchasing a small nursery stock specimen which can also be fairly inexpensive and will provide a plant ready to work with.  Digging a small plant out of your garden is the most inexpensive way to start, however, it may also take some time for it to mature enough to be ready to use (depending on how mature the plant is that you dig up).  Taking a cutting from a plant in your garden could be much quicker it would just require the time it takes to produce roots.  Someone may be discarding a plant that has outgrown its spot or is not growing well.  They are often quicker to work with as they have mature trunk growth already.  Some nursery centres offer “ready-made” bonsai; however, they are usually extremely expensive and may not be a true bonsai at all.

Designing your Bonsai is one of the most enjoyable parts of the project!  Your options are endless.  There are many “styles” of Bonsai:  Cascading, Semi-Cascading, Leaning, Windswept, Formal Upright, Informal Upright, Double Trunk, Group Planting, Roots Over Rock.  Overall balance is a key to a good design.  The most important principle of Bonsai designing is to style the specimen after the way it grows in nature. The root spread, the form of the trunk and the branch arrangement will help create this balance.   The root spread should extend from the trunk in many directions.  It is often one of the most interesting characteristics of the bonsai.  Some are trained to grow over or around rocks.  The trunk should be exposed and form the basic design.  It should not be completely vertical.  Allowing it to grow at an angle with a good taper at the top and a thicker base will give it the appearance of maturity.  You can then alter the branches as you wish by pruning and wiring.  The first and heaviest branches should start about 1/3 up the trunk.  Each one tapering out away from the trunk.  It should be planted off to one side of the container to compensate for the angle of the trunk.

I started with a very inexpensive project.  I dug a large, over-grown sage plant out of the garden (because I liked the look of the main stalk) and used a pot that I already had. I was trying for a Semi-Cascading style.  Since I was pretty timid that I could ruin my first attempt, I wanted to try my hand at something cheap and simple.  I could not believe the amount of root and branch trimming I had to do to make this plant fit in the pot.  And it lived!  The wiring really had me nervous, however, I was pleasantly surprised at how much torture the branches could take without snapping in two.  The wiring was not hard to master, and I have to admit the smaller wire held pretty good for most branches. The smaller wire was much easier to work with, but the large wire was needed for anchoring the trunk.  I am definitely brave enough to try this again!

No matter how you acquire your plant, it is best to consider dwarf varieties of trees or shrubs with an interesting trunk or bark colour/texture.  You can also look for a plant with fine-textured foliage, small leaves, flowers, and fruit.  Look for plants with strong upward growing branches that flow up and around the tree like a spiral.  Some popular choices are:  Bamboo, Japanese Maple, Honeysuckle, Silver Birch, Cotoneaster, Banyan Fig, Honey Locust, Scots Pine, Chinese Juniper, Crab Apple, Mountain Ash, Wisteria, and Flowering Cherry.

The planter you choose plays a big part of the finished look of your Bonsai.  It is important that you pick a container with drainage holes in the bottom.  These can also be used to wire in your plant for stability.  The plants are not planted in much soil and may need the extra help.  You can purchase a specific bonsai planter, use what you have on hand or look for an interesting container at a thrift store or antique store.  There are endless options and expense levels (as in any hobby).

The tools you will need are probably ones you already have around the house.  You will need branch cutters that are able to prune small branches approximately the thickness of a pencil.  Thin-bladed pruning scissors to prune fine branches or roots. Needle-nose Tweezers for weeding and removing small debris or conifer needles. Pliers and wire-cutters are also needed.

 

Now the real fun begins, you get to wire your plant to create your desired form.  It is best to use a gauge of wire to match the thickness of the branches involved.  The larger branches and trunk need heavier wire than the smaller branches.  Aluminum and copper wire can be used. The recommended wire gauge is one-sixth to one-third the diameter of the wood.  The wood’s age and pliability should also be considered.  Anodized aluminum is easier to work with than copper but weakens after being bent.  People prefer the less noticeable colour when on the tree. Annealed copper wire becomes harder when bent and is more efficient for conifers or larger branches.  The wire comes off at different times for different plants.  As your plant grows you can unwire your branches and see if it is maintaining its shape.  You may also need to wire different branches as they grow out to maintain your desired style.  Playing with the shape can be an on-going process or not, you get to choose.

Careful maintenance of these plants makes a big difference.  They are all under quite a lot of stress, so they do require constant care.  First of all, place it in a location that provides the same light/humidity as it needs in nature.  If it is to grow indoors it will need a south-facing window or additional artificial light.  Water from the top each evening to ensure that the water is available to the plant overnight.  Watch it carefully in the winter, keep the soil moist. Provide well-draining standard soil (one part loam, two parts peat, two parts coarse sand). Slow-release granular fertilizer is best as it enables you to see when it is depleted.  This avoids over-fertilizing due to the small amount of soil.  Annually repot plants each Spring, prune the roots by one-third to encourage vigorous growth.

I encourage you to try Bonsai, it is a stress-free hobby that you can devote as much time to as you wish!

Linda Peacock